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what exactly are za'atar and sumac?
what can i say about these two ingredients? arguably the most prideful products of our region.
sumac is actually a berry that is harvested from the sumac tree. this tree grows in the mountains of jordan, and the highest quality of sumac comes from the region of ajloun due to its high elevation and which makes for optimal growing conditions.
the sumac that we enjoy as a spice is the end result of a process that the raw berry needs to go through before it's edible. first, the dried berries are cured with salt and water, which changes brownish color to the vibrant fuchsia of the spice that we all know. after the curing, they get dried and ground and run through a sieve to separate the flesh of the berry from the seeds. the seeds are then reused to grow more sumac trees, and the rest we eat!
za'atar is actually a plant - it's a relative of oregano that is native to palestine, jordan, syria, and lebanon. within this region, there are also different types of za'atar that are used for different parts of our cuisine. the main one that i want to talk about is what we call wild za'atar, which is native to the dry mountainous regions of palestine and jordan. this specific za'atar has a more spicy bite to it than the other varieties, and is prized to make our famous spice mix that is named after the plant.
a lion in the house
there's an old palestinian saying that translates into something like "za'atar and (olive) oil are two lions in the house". it's rhyme-y in arabic so it lands differently when translated, but it basically means that those two, together, are king of the house. this is in reference of the herb mix that has the same namesake as the herb that is the foundation of it. i've talked about how sometimes my dad will just dip bread in olive oil and that would be his breakfast, and i can't emphasize enough how good it is. it's so simple and so satisfying. same with za'atar. i even have palestinian friends who, when they were kids, would dip their hard boiled eggs into a za'atar blend and eat it that way. it's the simplest and humblest of foods, and is centuries old.
this humble herb mix made from wild jordanian za’atar, ajlouni sumac, roasted sesame seeds, salt, and a little olive oil is so versatile with the pairing possibilities, which is what makes it an essential part of our region’s rich culinary tradition. it's a staple on every breakfast table in the levant, and it's commonly eaten in 2 specific ways:
1. by mixing extra virgin olive oil with the za'atar to your desired consistency, then dipping your bread into it and eating it that way, or
2. by having two separate bowls - one containing za'atar, and one containing olive oil - and dipping your bread first in the oil, and then the za'atar and eating it that way. this is the way my family eats it, but both ways are equally popular and common in the arab world.
za'atar is also the most popular type of mana'eesh, an arabic flat bread, which is made by adding za'atar and olive oil onto the raw dough before putting it in the oven. you can also do this at home with store bought pizza dough or, if you're in a rush, you can just use bread like naan or pita and throw it in the oven until done. i like mine crispy.
one of the things i like to do with za'atar, especially in the fall/winter season, is to eat it with brussels sprouts! all you need to do is deep fry your brussels sprouts until crispy. be careful; deep frying brussels sprouts creates mini explosions, so keep a lid handy to cover them so you don't get burned. after they're golden brown and done, i take them out of the oil and toss them with za'atar and a little aleppo salt. they're delicious like this, but you can also add some pomegranate molasses for a sweet and sour flavor, or dip them in a tahini sauce.
i've linked an instagram reel below of me making them for your reference and if you want to recreate it for yourself!
how we eat sumac
sumac is truly a spice that can be put on anything. it goes great as a garnish on salads, labneh, kabab, hummus, and even desserts if you wanna be fancy - i personally like to sprinkle it on strawberries.
you can cook with it too. some of our most popular traditional dishes are oriented around it, like musakhan, which is literally 5 ingredients - bread, onions, sumac, chicken, and extra virgin olive oil to bring everything together. there's also sumagieh, which is a traditional gazan meal made with sumac as the base of the dish. it's also a key ingredient in the vegetarian grape leaves from our region that we call yalanji, which is a super tart dish.
and if you want to be really “chef-y”, sumac is a great ingredient to cure salmon or other fish, or even cucumbers and other vegetables and fruit. it's a truly versatile spice that will add a sour punch to your food. the specific sumac that we sell at shawarmaji is of the highest quality i've had in my life. this isn't your regular degular middle eastern store sumac. honestly, it's so good that i like to take a pinch of it and throw it in my mouth every time i walk by the container in our house. it has a super complex berry flavor and a nice texture that i love and adds to any experience.
click the instagram thumbnail below to see how i use our sumac to make yalanji.
za'atar is not only a staple in our kitchens. it's also one of the key spice blends within the whole spectrum of arab spice profiles, which is now all represented in our teta spice box, my most recent labor of love at shawarmaji. this box was made to celebrate the flavors that have shaped our culinary traditions, which i personally attribute to the arab grandmother because of how my teta was such a big influence on my cooking.
za'atar chicken recipe: a shawarmaji team favorite
certain members of our team (you know who you are) can’t get enough of this za’atar chicken recipe. they love to make it for family dinners and special occasions, so i decided it'd be a good one to share with all of you. it’s really easy to prepare, and honestly really delicious.
ingredients
5 lemons
4-5 pieces of chicken of your liking. we recommend leaving the skin on for a crispy finish.
2 yukon gold potatoes cut into wedges.
2 yellow onions cut into wedges.
3 shallots cut into halves.
2 heads of garlic cut into halves along the to get cross sections.
5 tsp ajlouni sumac
3 tsp shawarmaji ground allspice
7 tbsp shawarmaji za’atar
a healthy pour of olive oil. measure with you heart :)
1 cup of water + 5 tbsp of bouillon mixed to make your stock. any stock or broth of your preference will also do.
3 tsp of salt
1 1/2 tsp of black pepper
4-5 pieces of chicken of your liking. we recommend leaving the skin on for a crispy finish.
2 yukon gold potatoes cut into wedges.
2 yellow onions cut into wedges.
3 shallots cut into halves.
2 heads of garlic cut into halves along the to get cross sections.
5 tsp ajlouni sumac
3 tsp shawarmaji ground allspice
7 tbsp shawarmaji za’atar
a healthy pour of olive oil. measure with you heart :)
1 cup of water + 5 tbsp of bouillon mixed to make your stock. any stock or broth of your preference will also do.
3 tsp of salt
1 1/2 tsp of black pepper
prep
1. cut 3 of the lemons into ¼-inch/6mm-thick slices and place into your large mixing bowl.
2. squeeze the 2 remaining lemons into the mixing bowl along with the chicken, onions, garlic, sumac, allspice, za'atar, olive oil, stock, salt, and black pepper. give it a good mixing to combine all those flavors well, then cover with cling film and preferably let it marinate in the fridge overnight, or for at least 2 hours.
3. take your bowl out of the fridge at least half and hour before baking; it should be at room temperature before going into the oven.
4. preheat your oven to 425°F.
5. place all of the contents in your bowl onto your baking pan. it should have high rims to account for the juices. we like to have the lemon slices as the first layer with the chicken laying on top of them, skin side up, to really get the flavors all melding together.
6. now have your other ingredients evenly distributed and spaced out on the pan, and pour on all of the marinade.
7. cover with foil and bake for about 40 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and the onions and potatoes have softened.
8. then uncover and bake for another 20 minutes to get crispy outer layers.
transfer all of your contents to a serving platter along with the lemon slices and any juices that are left at the bottom of the pan. serve it with rice (we like basmati because it soaks up the juices well) and enjoy!
pro tip: i've linked another process instagram reel to the photo below, so make sure to click it if you'd like to see how we make za'atar chicken ;)
thank you to every one of you who continually support our small family business, allow me to share my musings, and give me the opportunity to live my dream by serving our community the food that i love (and live) to eat.
peace, love, and toum,
chef mohammad abutaha
