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if you’ve ever eaten something palestinian that stuck with you, chances are there was allspice in it.
while a lot people probably think it's a blend, it’s actually just a single dried berry. but in our kitchen growing up, it may as well have been its own category. my mom kept it near the stove and used it like salt. a spoon in the rice, a pinch in the kofta, maybe a few berries dropped into broth even.
arab cooks reach for it more often than you’d think, especially in the levant. not just for savory dishes like stews, maqloubeh, or kofta, but even for some desserts. it's an incredibly versatile single spice that's fresh, sharp, and woody, and is a key ingredient in shawarmaji's chicken spice blend.
it was the first spice i learned to recognize by smell. sharp but warm, and woody but not dry. it makes meat taste like it has been slow-cooking for hours, it rounds out lentils, and has this way of making food taste fuller, if that makes sense.
i use it at shawarmaji every day, and i had it stocked at teta nahla when it was operational too. i always know i can depend on allspice because it’s what the women who taught me how to cook relied on as well.
i feel like i might still be learning from it honestly, like i'm still learning from my mom.
a spice that adapts
allspice is one of the most essential spices in palestinian cooking, and is often used as the backbone of the spice mix for both everyday and celebratory meals. it's not a garnish or an accent; it's central to the identity of many dishes.
some of these well-known recipes also have as many versions as there are families with their own takes on those dishes. and it's because allspice doesn’t belong to a single application or food category; it adapts. it softens sharpness, adds structure to sweetness, and brings an aromatic lift to long-cooked meats and vegetables.
we offer ours whole or freshly ground and ready to use. no filler, no blends of other spices to make it; just real allspice berries.
four spices, one story
this is the last installment of our four essential single spices. each one is a pillar that holds up the foundation of our cooking, which is a part of our tradition, and we’ve been trying to give each one its time to highlight their unique and special qualities. these entries also weave in how we were taught to use them as a tribute to the people who taught us how to cook, even if we didn’t realize it at the time.
last mother's day, the team put together a bundle dedicated to these amazing women that birthed us (tetas included) and taught us everything, which included one single spice box that brought the four essentials our arab kitchens are built on as a small gesture of thanks and appreciation.
and if they’re still teaching you how to cook, in person, or over the phone, or just through the way you remember how something tasted, consider yourself very lucky. in islam, we believe that heaven lies beneath the feet of the mother, so show them you know it.
happy mother's day everyday, mama, and happy mother's day to all the mothers who continually sacrifice for us, and who are the only people that aren't seasonal and will always be there for you.
thank you to every one of you who continually support our small family business, allow me to share my musings, and give me the opportunity to live my dream by serving our community the food that i love (and live) to eat.
peace, love, and toum,
chef mohammad abutaha
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