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shawarmaji’s coriander is sun-dried and citrusy, with a toasted edge that hits the pan and gives everything else way to follow. it’s often the second spice we reach for, but the first one we taste.
it holds everything together without being overpowering.
before the chili, the garlic, and the squeeze of lemon, there’s usually coriander. it’s in the pot before the broth, or the meat, and sometimes even the rice. notorious for clinging to your fingers when seasoning by feel and without following measurements from a recipe.
in arab cooking, coriander is often seen as a “connector.” it’s the spice that links one flavor to another, turning a dish into a story. it’s what brings garlic and lemon together like they're one. it can take something sharp and soften it, or take something simple and make it complex.
when i was first introduced to it, it was also one of the first lessons i got in measuring with your heart. a little in the broth, a little in the oil, a little more if it’s for someone who needs comfort, and always with garlic. coriander and garlic go together like two hands in the same task. we have an arabic saying that speaks well to this and goes something like "one hand can't clap", which evokes the same meaning as how we say "it takes two to tango" in english.
and nowhere is that more clear than in molokhieh, which we served when we first opened teta nahla, our sister restaurant that used to be where the first shawarmaji oakland was (which i hope to bring back permanently someday). i made it the way we had it growing up, with chicken and tatbileh on the side, and a really simple medley of ingredients that becomes a cornerstone of arab comfort food. i've shared the recipe below for you to switch up dinner if molokhieh isn't already a top ten meal you make.
it’s in our stews, rubs, dressings, and pickles.
ground coriander gives body to soups and slow-cooked dishes throughout the arab world. and this is across the board, whether it’s thick lentil stews ladled out at the end of a long day, or green, garlicky dishes (molokhieh, we’re looking at you) your mom makes when she's got the time on a weekend.
whole coriander seeds are toasted for spice blends or gently cracked for marinades. they float in jars of homemade pickled turnips, show up in a meatball stew, and everything in between. used differently from kitchen to kitchen, but always used.
shawarmaji’s coriander is available both whole and ground. the whole seeds are bright and fragrant, with a slightly lemony note that wakes up when toasted. the ground version? nutty, earthy, citrus-forward. the best for when you want something to melt into the base of a dish.
molokhieh (with chicken)
this is a green and garlicky dish, with a texture that’s unmistakable; soft, almost silky, like a stew and a soup at the same time. it's made from finely chopped jute mallow leaves, or molokhieh in arabic. it’s beloved across the arab world, with each region (or country even) putting its own mark on it. in jordan, we serve it with chicken, a heaping spoon of rice, and that punchy garlic-cilantro tatbileh spooned right on top. this is the version i make at home, and what i grew up eating. simple ingredients can make powerful memories when treated with care.
ingredients
for the chicken boil:
1 whole chicken or 4–6 bone-in pieces
1 onion, peeled and cut into quarters
1 cup ginger (chopped)
1 dried lime, cut in half or crushed
1 tbl coriander
1 tbl salt
2 bay leaves
for the chicken roast:
salt to taste
black pepper to taste
a healthy pour of EVOO
for the molokhieh:
400g of molokhieh (you can find it at any arabic store)
4 1/4 cups of chicken stock.
5 tbl garlic (about 3 heads)
1 small bunch of cilantro (about 1/2 cup chopped)
1/2 tbl ground coriander
4 tbl of samneh
1 tsp of salt
for the tatbileh:
5 tbl of garlic
1/2 tbl salt
1 large or 1 1/2 medium green bell peppers (chopped)
1 medium sized serrano pepper (chopped)
1 1/2 cups of lemon juice (the juice of about 8 lemons)
4 tbl EVOO
prep
1. after cleaning your chicken, put everything into a pot, cover with cold water and bring to a boil. once it comes to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and cook for 30 minutes. take the chicken out, strain the stock and reserve. make sure you drain your chicken really well and pat dry when it has cooled a little.
2. salt and pepper both sides to taste. if it's a whole chicken, be sure to sprinkle your salt and pepper on the inside cavity as well. you want an even distribution.
optional: now, if you have time and making this was planned (and not a day-of decision), i highly recommend refrigerating it uncovered for 2-12 hours after draining well and salt and pepper. this will give you the best skin texture when you roast. if you decide to do this, and if available, put your chicken on a wire rack on a sheet pan and then into the fridge. this will allow the air to circulate under it as well.
3. preheat your oven to 425°F and place your cast iron pan in the oven to heat for 5 minutes.
4. when you know your cast iron is nice and hot, remove it from the oven, add a generous pour of EVOO, and carefully place the well-drained chicken or chicken pieces into the pan, skin-side down.
5. return to the oven and roast for 12–15 minutes for a whole chicken, or 8-12 minutes for pieces, until the skin begins to brown and render.
6. now take out your pan, flip the chicken skin-side up, and return to the oven for another 10–15 minutes for a whole chicken, or 7-10 minutes for pieces, until the skin is golden and crisp and the internal temperature at the thickest part of the breast reaches 160–162°F, or 165–170°F for thighs and drumsticks.
7. remove from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes before serving.
important note: the chicken is already mostly cooked from the boiling part. the oven phase is for browning, rendering, and finishing, not cooking through, so if the chicken begins to darken too quickly, lower the oven temperature to 400°F, or cover it loosely with foil. because ovens vary a lot with their heat output, keep this in mind and stay at the oven between steps.
8. now for the second and more important part - molokhieh! put the stock and molokhieh in your pot and bring to a low simmer.
9. once simmering, in a separate pan, cook the garlic, cilantro, and coriander in the samneh for a minute, and then add it into the pot with the molokhieh. add the salt, and its now (almost) ready to serve! you can technically eat it like this, but if you want to have it the way we eat it in jordan, i highly recommend making the tatbileh to go along with it.
10. for the tatbileh, add everything into a food processor and goooooo. i love this tatbileh and we eat it with a lot of things. so even if you make more than what's needed for this meal, you can use it on anything else and your meals the next day. it'll keep in your fridge for at least a week.
when serving, spoon the molokhieh on top of your rice and chicken, and then garnish with tatbileh as per your preference. this dish, like coriander, connects. it ties one day to the next, and it reminds me that food isn’t always about big gestures. sometimes it’s a quiet meal on a weekday, eaten on the couch or around a crowded table.
thank you to every one of you who continually support our small family business, allow me to share my musings, and give me the opportunity to live my dream by serving our community the food that i love (and live) to eat.
peace, love, and toum,
chef mohammad abutaha
